The study of perfumes through the ages is indeed an interesting subject. The word ‘perfume’ is a derivation from the Latin word ‘per fumum’ which literally means ‘through smoke’. Perfumery has evolved down the ages and its travel through history is indeed an interesting subject.
The art of making perfumes can be traced back to ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia according to available records which mention the name of Tapputi, a perfume maker. But the art was made finer and more consistent by the Romans and the Persians. East Asia also contributed much to the development of perfumes although much of their hand work was based on incense sticks.
The Arabian expertise in making of perfumes was revealed through the ‘Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations’, which was written by the Arabian chemist Al-Kindi as early as the 9th Century, where he lists more than a hundred recipes for the creation of aromatic oils, fragrant waters, salves, etc. He has also given in detail all the equipments required for making perfumes as well as a hundred and seven methods of perfume making!
Later on, Avicenna or Ibn Sina, the Persian chemist and doctor invented the method of distillation for the extraction of fragrant oils from flowers. This became extremely popular and it must be said that this method proved to be very successful and is used even today.
As the religion of Islam spread to Europe, the knowledge of making perfumes too was introduced to the continent by the 14th century. But due credit should be given to the Hungarians who were responsible for the creation of the modern perfume which was a blend of fragrant oils and alcohol. Known all over Europe as ‘Hungary Water’, this was created at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary in 1370.
Gradually, the art of making perfumes spread to Italy and by the 16th century, the Italian perfumes were introduced in France by Rene le Florentin, the personal perfumer of Catherine de’ Medici. The whole process was kept a secret and the formulas were closely guarded against theft.
France rapidly evolved to be a major hub of the perfume world especially due to the farming of aromatic plants in its Grasse region, mainly to meet the enormous raw material need. This gradually became an important industry in the South of France. To this day, France is considered to be one of the major centers in Europe which concentrates on the manufacture of world class perfumes and cosmetics.
Tim Walt – Jan.2009