Posts Tagged ‘Composition’
Composing Perfumes May 22, 2009 | 12:01 pm

Fragrances are used in a variety of consumer products these days ranging from cosmetics, luxury goods, food services, manufacture of household chemical items, etc and therefore the composition of good fragrances has become increasingly important. The reason behind this is quite simple. Customers get attracted by the fragrance emitted by the product or the perfume and this leads to their purchasing it.

Composing perfumes that has the power to entice customers is the job of a perfumer who is often referred to as ‘the nose’. With their fine sense of smell and the in depth training obtained in the principles of perfume aesthetics, they are able to create delicate compositions which successfully convey a variety of moods and feelings. A good perfumer should have the essential knowledge in differentiating between different fragrances as well as the individual quality of each ingredient used.

The initial step in the composition of perfumes is very important though extremely tedious. The client gives a brief to the perfumer about the specifications required for a particular perfume which they have in mind. Accordingly, the concerned people start their work by researching on various aspects like the description of the smell of the perfume, the feelings that the smell is able to arouse in them, the desirable time of the day the perfume can be worn, the pricing factor, etc which can ultimately lead to the required aromatic ingredients which can be used in its composition.
The next step in the composition of the perfume is the blending of various ingredients so that it meets the specifications arrived during the brief. This process is time consuming and may take months or years, since it is very essential that the perfect blend is arrived at. Once it is achieved, the composition is used either in the manufacture of consumer products like shampoos, soaps, or other household goods, or sold directly as a perfume.

A main thing to be noted is that there is never a ‘perfect technique’ that can be used while formulating perfumes, even though several guidelines are available to this effect. Other than the base ingredients, a lot of perfumes make use of other substances like colorants, anti oxidants, etc with the purpose of enhancing the shelf life of the perfume as well as to influence the marketability of the product in a positive manner.

It is also to be seen that a lot of contemporary perfumers employ the technique of creating perfumes and colognes by making use of fragrances bases like aromatic chemicals and essential oils. There are various techniques employed to create such fragrances, but largely it is seen that ethyl alcohol and water are used to blend the fragrance oils which are left to age in large tanks for a specific period. This is later filtered and marketed as perfumes.

Tim Walt

Obtaining odorants – Maceration April 28, 2009 | 06:21 pm

Before the creation of perfumes it is essential to obtain odorants to be used in the various process of its composition. Odorants can be obtained through synthetic as well as natural methods. While synthetically, odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purification, natural methods of extraction vary according to the type of plant as well as the type of oil that is produced. Every method adopted does not give equal results and the degree and quality of the essential oil obtained out of the different processes will differ. It should be remembered that as the difficulty of the process increases, the purity of the oil will be more and so will the expense. The cheaper methods employed may sometimes cause allergies in the skin.

Maceration is one of the most frequently used technique in the extraction of essential oils and it is also considered economical too. As a result this technique is widely used for extraction in the perfume industry today. Also known as solvent extraction, the process employed in this method is quite simple. Maceration makes use of a solvent which has the power to dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. The required raw materials are submerged in this solvent to obtain the desired results.

The duration of dissolving the raw materials in the solvent and extraction of aromatic compounds may take anywhere from a couple of hours to months together. It depends upon the material that is immersed and the quality of the essential oil that has to be extracted. Some of the main oils extracted this way are those obtained from woody and fibrous plant materials as well as those obtained from animal sources.

The method of maceration or solvent extraction is also employed in such cases where the odorants are extremely volatile or highly denatured due to heat. The process of maceration is gentle enough then to deliver high quality aromatic oil safely.

The process of maceration makes use of several suitable solvents for achieving the purpose. The most common among the solvents used in this process are hexane, ethanol, and di methyl ether. The name given for the product obtained after the process of maceration is ‘Concrete’.

Tim Walt