Rarely does perfume come to mind when one thinks about leaves, but plant leaves have played an important role in perfumery since people began to enjoy wearing scents. While the flowers of most plants used in perfumes are essential so, too, are the leaves of those plants. Leaves normally hold more oil than flowers since they are the life-support of the blossoms. While petals and other parts of the flower are used for their aroma, leaves provide many of the oils used to mix perfumes to the correct scent and consistency.

In the middle ages, leaves were a very important source for the perfumers of the royal courts, for the flowers were often allowed to be harvested only at the pleasure of the ruling monarch. The flowers would grace the tables and halls of nobility until they wilted, rendering them useless for scents, while the leaves still retained much of the essential oils that perfumers needed to make their creations.

Leaves have continued to be used in perfumes, particularly the leaves of herbal plants. Basil leaves are not just for cooking, but is included in many perfumes including Dune by Christian Dior. Dune combines the leaves of basil, mandarin and sage with moss and cedarwood for a truly unique and delicious scent that definitely doesn’t smell like a kitchen!

The leaves of herbal plants are very aromatic due to the oil that the plant manufactures. They are very easy to cultivate and quite inexpensive, making them a favorite ingredient of many perfumers. Oil from the leaves is usually recovered by crushing or grinding, strained for impurities and decanted for later use. The process is very simple and had been done by hand for hundreds of years before the age of machines.

Many people are surprised when they learn how many varieties of leaves are used in the scents that they love. Coriander, for instance, isn’t just a prominent ingredient in your favorite salsa but when Moschino perfumers mix it with rose, gardenia, carnation and vanilla it becomes the popular perfume Moschino. If you think you aren’t familiar with coriander, that’s because it’s more commonly called cilantro.

Wormwood has also been used, particularly in France where the plant thrives. Its aromatic leaves have been used as a base for many years, imparting a fresh herbal scent and pleasing consistency to both liquid and solid perfumes. In the Middle East, jasmine and myrtle leaves as well as cinnamon leaves were and still are used in perfumes. Other leaves used in prominent perfumes on the market today include lavender, rosemary, sage, caraway and thyme.

Tim Walt

Seaweed isn’t a common ingredient in perfume due to the high cost and low yield of processing it. Since perfume demands extracts of essential oils and seaweed is water based, there are very little amounts of essence to draw out of this ocean plant. Several perfumers experimented with it, however, because of its intriguing aroma of driftwood accented by fresh, briny breezes with a faint touch of iodine.

The essential oils of seaweed is call choya nakh and is so strong that it must be diluted before being added to the aroma palette of a perfume. The most common type of seaweed that was has been used is Fucus Vesiculosus, also referred to a bladderwrack, that is found in the waters and on the shores of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans in the United States and abroad.

More often you will find kelp, a form of seaweed, as an ingredient in perfumes. In the late 1970’s, two German scientists found that female kelp plants release a pheromone that direct the male kelps to the proper place to fertilize the microscopic kelp egg, thus ensuring the propagation of the species. The discovery was made quite by accident when they thought that someone had smuggled a bottle of gin into the lab; on further investigation they found the culprit and published their findings regarding the sexual pheromone.

Of course, pheromones are often used in perfumes and perfumers began experimenting with kelp and other forms of seaweed. Since the whole idea of perfume is to make one attractive to the opposite sex as well as pleasing one’s self, pheromones are a very important ingredient when they can be added to the mix. The unusual odiferous qualities of kelp and seaweed were intriguing to creative perfumers, sparking quite a bit of research and experimentation.

However, you will rarely find a quality perfume that features genuine seaweed notes.
The prohibitive cost of extraction has made it a scarcity, a classic example of irony when one thinks of the miles of beaches strewn with this ocean bounty. Most “seaweed” essences are actually a form of kelp which is referred to as seaweed.

Tim Walt