The thought of perfume containing tobacco essence might be repulsive to some until they realize how good tobacco really smells. It’s the smoke that actually smells so bad, not the tobacco itself. Anyone that has ever walked into a fine cigar shop can appreciate the rich, luxurious scent of good tobacco and see the wonderful possibilities of using that aroma in fine perfume.

Lagerfeld by Karl Lagerfeld is a good example of what tobacco essence can do for perfume. Combining the oils of spices and tobacco, Lagerfeld produces the smoky ambiance of a fine cigar spiked with spices that lend a slightly sweet, fresh note that evokes the very essence of masculine strength and luxury.

Tobacco’s bittersweet aroma makes it a perfect companion to cedar, citrus and spices. Some perfumers have added femininity to it by mixing it with honeysuckle, lemon or ambergris. A touch of coffee or cocoa makes it androgynous yet sensuous.

In fact, tobacco is so versatile that it can be added to nearly any perfume to elicit a variety of emotions or impressions. A scent with tobacco notes can bring to mind anything from dried fruits or gingerbread to the sharp impression of fine whiskey or the fresh scent of freshly cut hay.

Most of us remember the sweet odor of burning leaves in the fall and crisp autumn winds with the sharp bite of winter barely creeping in. Tobacco captures these smells and emotions so perfectly that you don’t realize your nose is enjoying a leaf that is so despised for its commercial use of smoking. Tobacco is also used in the leather family of fragrances as a base or middle note to compliment the scent of leather; in the right combination of scents, it can allude to aged, supple leather to create a warm and rich feeling of winter nights by a fire with a good book and a glass of fine wine.

Of course, there are synthetic versions of tobacco aroma that are being used more frequently in fine perfumes. The environmentally friendly synthetics are very precise and the quality is consistent enough that each batch of perfume maintains the exacting standards of the perfumer.

Regardless of natural or synthetic origin, or whether you deplore the use of tobacco aside from perfume, there’s no doubt that tobacco leaves provide a warm and sensual note to scents for both men and women. The person who wants their presence remembered for an uncommonly delicious fragrance should seek out those unique creations that contain tobacco.

Tim Walt

Patchouli, originally native to Asia, is now cultivated in tropical areas throughout the world. 
A bushy herb of the mint family and distantly related to lavender and
rosemary, it is reluctant to flower and is propagated by cuttings. 
Patchouli rocketed to popularity during the hippie movement of the 60’s
when people began challenging traditional ideas. 
Trying different scents that weren’t widely accepted or even known
about was par for the course in that particular era. 
Once Patchouli caught on, however, it eventually became a common
ingredient in perfumes, soaps and incense.  Its
rich exotic scent reminds one of earth and wood, making it a popular ingredient
in perfume. 

 BOGART
POUR HOMME BY JACQUES BOGART(MEN) – Price : $21.02

Patchouli is also very useful to
perfumers as a fixative that blends well with other ingredients, substantially
slowing their evaporation and allowing the scent to last longer. 
It is usually harvested by steam distillation and has very good yields,
the leaves producing 3.5% of their weight in oil. 
Patchouli leaves are said to be best if processed as quickly as possible
after harvesting but some producers prefer to bale dried leaves and allow them
to ferment a bit to encourage their earthy scent. 
Aging is an important part of processing the leaves, as they have a
rather harsh aroma when first picked.  The
oil mellows with time, becoming sweeter and richer-much as fine wine does as it
ages. 

Both men’s and women’s perfumes use
patchouli for its rich, warm fragrance redolent of nature and sunshine. 
High quality oil is demanded by the best perfumers; patchouli that has
been altered by additives to stretch its quantity has a cedar wood or clove-like
scent and its fixative powers are severely impeded. 
The best patchouli oil is fruity, sophisticated and has a wine-like
richness. 

 CRISTALLE
BY CHANEL – Price : $44.95

Patchouli is ideal for men and women who
like to wear fresh scents inspired by nature. 
Bogart Pour Homme by Jacques Bogart, a men’s cologne first marketed in
2004, uses patchouli as a base to preserve and compliment its other notes of
vanilla, bergamot and water lily tempered by tonka bean. 
Cristalle, a women’s fragrance by Chanel, combines patchouli with rose
and amber with an aldehyde fixative for a fresh scent of summer days full of
sunshine and cool, breezy evenings with a hint of dew. 
As you can see, patchouli is very versatile and allows other components
to shine while subtly lending its own unique and earthy bouquet to the formula.  

Tim Walt