Resins are an important ingredient in perfumes, enhancing the scents the perfume contains as well as inhibiting their dispersion into the air. Resins allow the aromas of perfume to last longer as well as retain their integrity. Basically, resins were the first “time-release” element that existed long before the modern concept of gradual release of aromas or other elements of modern life. As such, they are used not only in perfumes but in deodorants, scented sanitizers, or any product that is meant to smell pleasant for an extended period of time.

There are many different kinds of resin used in making perfume. Labdanum, a sticky dark brown substance from a species of rockrose shrub, has a complex scent profile. Woody, smoky and earthy, some say it has slight marshy undertones that aren’t unpleasant but very different. Others think it smells like honey or hints of leather. Its very complexity makes it valuable in perfumery, as each person seems to smell a different aroma. This makes one perfume smell different to and on each person. In Crete, it is still harvested by driving goats into forests overgrown with labdanum bushes then combing the beards of the animals when they return from grazing. Harvesters also drag a mop-like collection of leather strips mounted on a pole across the bushes to gather the resin.

Benzoin resin, a balsamic secretion from tree bark, is a common ingredient in perfume because of its fixative properties and its aroma. Further, there are two different kinds; benzoin Siam and benzoin Sumatra. Benzoin Siam is found in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia while benzoin Sumatra is found in the country of the same name. Both are very fragrant and drastically slow the evaporation of perfume properties.

Frankincense, another prized ingredient in perfumes, comes from the Boswellia tree that thrives in Somalia and the surrounding country. Slashing the bark of the scrawny but hardy tree results in “tears” leaking out which are allowed to harden before being collected. The best resin is the last of the two or three harvests per year, the quality determined by its opacity. Yemen and Somalia produce wonderful frankincense although the resins collected in Omani is said to be the finest. Frankincense supplies are dwindling, however, due to over-tapping trees that in turn produce seeds that are unable to germinate properly.

Other resins include myrrh, Peru balsam and pine, all with their own unique contributions to make.

Tim Walt

The thought of perfume containing tobacco essence might be repulsive to some until they realize how good tobacco really smells. It’s the smoke that actually smells so bad, not the tobacco itself. Anyone that has ever walked into a fine cigar shop can appreciate the rich, luxurious scent of good tobacco and see the wonderful possibilities of using that aroma in fine perfume.

Lagerfeld by Karl Lagerfeld is a good example of what tobacco essence can do for perfume. Combining the oils of spices and tobacco, Lagerfeld produces the smoky ambiance of a fine cigar spiked with spices that lend a slightly sweet, fresh note that evokes the very essence of masculine strength and luxury.

Tobacco’s bittersweet aroma makes it a perfect companion to cedar, citrus and spices. Some perfumers have added femininity to it by mixing it with honeysuckle, lemon or ambergris. A touch of coffee or cocoa makes it androgynous yet sensuous.

In fact, tobacco is so versatile that it can be added to nearly any perfume to elicit a variety of emotions or impressions. A scent with tobacco notes can bring to mind anything from dried fruits or gingerbread to the sharp impression of fine whiskey or the fresh scent of freshly cut hay.

Most of us remember the sweet odor of burning leaves in the fall and crisp autumn winds with the sharp bite of winter barely creeping in. Tobacco captures these smells and emotions so perfectly that you don’t realize your nose is enjoying a leaf that is so despised for its commercial use of smoking. Tobacco is also used in the leather family of fragrances as a base or middle note to compliment the scent of leather; in the right combination of scents, it can allude to aged, supple leather to create a warm and rich feeling of winter nights by a fire with a good book and a glass of fine wine.

Of course, there are synthetic versions of tobacco aroma that are being used more frequently in fine perfumes. The environmentally friendly synthetics are very precise and the quality is consistent enough that each batch of perfume maintains the exacting standards of the perfumer.

Regardless of natural or synthetic origin, or whether you deplore the use of tobacco aside from perfume, there’s no doubt that tobacco leaves provide a warm and sensual note to scents for both men and women. The person who wants their presence remembered for an uncommonly delicious fragrance should seek out those unique creations that contain tobacco.

Tim Walt

One would think that flowers would have been one of the first ingredients that would be used to make perfume but in fact, flowers weren’t used for that purpose until the 9th century. Before that, perfumers as far back as four thousand years ago used herbs, spices, resins and bark. Extracting the oils from flowers by distillation was first introduced by a Persian chemist named Avicenna and his procedure is still in wide use today. Until Avicenna’s discovery, it was a laborious process to use flowers in perfume, requiring hours of effort to pulverize the petals finely enough to extract some of the oils. Years later, the Hungarians would be the first to make modern perfume from flower oils blended in a solution of alcohol.

Most flowers are fragrant but some are exceptional enough to be used in perfumes. The best known and one of the most popular throughout perfume history is the rose, generally known as the queen of flowers. Perfumes made of roses were favorites in Greece and Rome. By gathering the flowers at night they would be at their best since they begin losing their scent after sunrise. Cristalle by Chanel uses roses as the chief ingredient along with aldehydes to enhance the bouquet, amber and patchouli.

Jasmine is another flower used in perfumes, also harvested just before dawn. Processed immediately before their fragrance fades, special care must be taken to keep the fragile petals from bruising and affecting the balance of the bouquet. Special baskets for just this purpose are kept for transporting them. Jasmine is used with vanilla and bergamot by Guerlain in the manufacture of Shalimar Light perfume, a refreshing feminine fragrance that is airy, pleasant and light.

Violets are also favorites but produce so little essential oil that they’re rarely used these days. Instead a synthetic replacement is used, usually combined with oils that resemble that of the violet.

Flower of fruit are also used in many perfumes. Those who know the heavenly scent of orange and lemon blossoms will understand why they are a popular ingredient in many floral perfumes. Jasmine, mimosa and lily blossoms as well as lily of the valley are also quite common in perfumes. Unopened flower buds of clove add spice to perfume concoctions and a member or the orchid family, vanilla, also is a favorite ingredient.

A few terms may come in handy for understanding floral perfume descriptions. When you hear a perfume referred to as a “single floral” it means that the fragrance is dominated by one particular flower such as rose or lily. “Floral Bouquet” means it contains the scent of several flowers and “bright floral” is a combination of the two.

Tim Walt

Animals have been used for making perfumes since people first began to use scents. You would be surprised at the wide variety of perfumes that owe their delicious and seductive aromas to the contributions of animals!

The most commonly known scent derived from animal resources is musk, a basic ingredient in many perfumes. Because of its intensely earthy odor, it makes an excellent base that accentuates other notes in a perfume. In the hundreds of years it has been used in human manufactured scents, it has always been popular because of its subtle aphrodisiac properties. Originally, people got musk from the musk sacs of the Asian Musk deer which, unfortunately, demanded the life of the animal. Modern musk is synthetic due not only to protected status of the formerly over-hunted deer but to enlightened perfume manufacturers that are increasingly more concerned about preserving wildlife as well as the environment.

Civets, a relative of the Mongoose, also produce musk that can be harvested without harm to the animal. The North American Beaver also contributes musk to perfume called Castoreum. Luckily, we can harvest the musk from both these animals without causing them harm or upsetting their glandular balance thanks to advanced and humane harvesting techniques.

Even honeybees contribute to the olfactory enjoyment of fine perfume! Their honeycombs, when distilled, produce a unique scent that has been used by perfumers for centuries. Ambergris, a digestive excretion of the Sperm Whale, is also used for cologne and perfume, particularly in amber-based scents. Rendered animal fat is used less often in solid perfumes than it was in centuries past

Tim Walt

Rarely does perfume come to mind when one thinks about leaves, but plant leaves have played an important role in perfumery since people began to enjoy wearing scents. While the flowers of most plants used in perfumes are essential so, too, are the leaves of those plants. Leaves normally hold more oil than flowers since they are the life-support of the blossoms. While petals and other parts of the flower are used for their aroma, leaves provide many of the oils used to mix perfumes to the correct scent and consistency.

In the middle ages, leaves were a very important source for the perfumers of the royal courts, for the flowers were often allowed to be harvested only at the pleasure of the ruling monarch. The flowers would grace the tables and halls of nobility until they wilted, rendering them useless for scents, while the leaves still retained much of the essential oils that perfumers needed to make their creations.

Leaves have continued to be used in perfumes, particularly the leaves of herbal plants. Basil leaves are not just for cooking, but is included in many perfumes including Dune by Christian Dior. Dune combines the leaves of basil, mandarin and sage with moss and cedarwood for a truly unique and delicious scent that definitely doesn’t smell like a kitchen!

The leaves of herbal plants are very aromatic due to the oil that the plant manufactures. They are very easy to cultivate and quite inexpensive, making them a favorite ingredient of many perfumers. Oil from the leaves is usually recovered by crushing or grinding, strained for impurities and decanted for later use. The process is very simple and had been done by hand for hundreds of years before the age of machines.

Many people are surprised when they learn how many varieties of leaves are used in the scents that they love. Coriander, for instance, isn’t just a prominent ingredient in your favorite salsa but when Moschino perfumers mix it with rose, gardenia, carnation and vanilla it becomes the popular perfume Moschino. If you think you aren’t familiar with coriander, that’s because it’s more commonly called cilantro.

Wormwood has also been used, particularly in France where the plant thrives. Its aromatic leaves have been used as a base for many years, imparting a fresh herbal scent and pleasing consistency to both liquid and solid perfumes. In the Middle East, jasmine and myrtle leaves as well as cinnamon leaves were and still are used in perfumes. Other leaves used in prominent perfumes on the market today include lavender, rosemary, sage, caraway and thyme.

Tim Walt

Odorants are a very important factor in the creation of perfumes. They are basically obtained by drawing out aromatic compounds from suitable raw materials which are obtained from parts of the plant or other natural sources. Although they can be created through synthetic methods too, the natural methods used in extraction of essential oils are far more superior and in demand. The whole procedure of extraction of odorants requires it to go through several processes.
There are different methods employed for the extraction of essential oils from natural sources, like distillation, solvent extraction, expression, enfleurage, etc. The method used depends upon the nature of the raw materials. These processes results in end products like essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters according to the wax concentrate on the extract.

Expression is one such process employed in the extraction of aromatic compounds. In this method, the raw materials used are squeezed, pressed, or compressed to extract the oil from it. This is a technique which is frequently employed in the extraction of oils from fruit peels, especially of those which fall into the category of the citrus family. The peels from such fruits contain a large amount of oil and hence expression is one method where all the oil can be taken out in the most economically viable manner. Normally, the peels are cold pressed or expressed mechanically for the maximum benefit.

Expression, as a method of extraction is a comparatively low cost method and when combined with the easy availability of raw materials, it is generally seen that citrus oils are cheaper in the market than other aromatic oils. Examples of such oils are lemon and sweet orange oils that are among the low cost oils in the aromatic industry.

The method of expression has been in use since very ancient times, as can be found in traditional Egyptian practices. It came into the picture long before distillation. Conventionally, the ancient Egyptians used to press the raw plant material and bury it in the dessert for a few months in unglazed ceramic utensils to dry out the water content which naturally used to get diffused through the pores of the ceramic vessel. What would remain inside the pot was the oil, which used to be taken out. It can be seen that scents obtained in such a manner still managed to retain its fragrance even after 3000 years, as can be proved from the lotus oil found in sealed alabaster vessels which were found in Tutankhamen’s tomb.

Tim Walt

Fragrances are used in a variety of consumer products these days ranging from cosmetics, luxury goods, food services, manufacture of household chemical items, etc and therefore the composition of good fragrances has become increasingly important. The reason behind this is quite simple. Customers get attracted by the fragrance emitted by the product or the perfume and this leads to their purchasing it.

Composing perfumes that has the power to entice customers is the job of a perfumer who is often referred to as ‘the nose’. With their fine sense of smell and the in depth training obtained in the principles of perfume aesthetics, they are able to create delicate compositions which successfully convey a variety of moods and feelings. A good perfumer should have the essential knowledge in differentiating between different fragrances as well as the individual quality of each ingredient used.

The initial step in the composition of perfumes is very important though extremely tedious. The client gives a brief to the perfumer about the specifications required for a particular perfume which they have in mind. Accordingly, the concerned people start their work by researching on various aspects like the description of the smell of the perfume, the feelings that the smell is able to arouse in them, the desirable time of the day the perfume can be worn, the pricing factor, etc which can ultimately lead to the required aromatic ingredients which can be used in its composition.
The next step in the composition of the perfume is the blending of various ingredients so that it meets the specifications arrived during the brief. This process is time consuming and may take months or years, since it is very essential that the perfect blend is arrived at. Once it is achieved, the composition is used either in the manufacture of consumer products like shampoos, soaps, or other household goods, or sold directly as a perfume.

A main thing to be noted is that there is never a ‘perfect technique’ that can be used while formulating perfumes, even though several guidelines are available to this effect. Other than the base ingredients, a lot of perfumes make use of other substances like colorants, anti oxidants, etc with the purpose of enhancing the shelf life of the perfume as well as to influence the marketability of the product in a positive manner.

It is also to be seen that a lot of contemporary perfumers employ the technique of creating perfumes and colognes by making use of fragrances bases like aromatic chemicals and essential oils. There are various techniques employed to create such fragrances, but largely it is seen that ethyl alcohol and water are used to blend the fragrance oils which are left to age in large tanks for a specific period. This is later filtered and marketed as perfumes.

Tim Walt

Perfumes certainly make great gifts. They bring about a smile on the recipient’s faces and are considered as an ideal gift for any occasion. Perfumes can be gifted on just about any event like mother’s day, Valentine’s Day, birthdays, anniversaries, etc. It makes an ideal gift most of the time since it tends to be very valued and treasured, especially if the particular fragrance happens to be a favorite with the recipient. Perfumes are available in a wide range of fragrances, types and packing to suit the taste of just about any individual.

A perfume happens to be a unisex gift. That is one of the reason why it can be safely gifted to both the sexes, since these days perfumes are equally desired not just by females, but by the male gender too. There are a variety of perfumes which cater exclusively to men. But before choosing a perfume as a gift, it would do well to know a bit about the person to whom you are gifting the scent because perfumes are essentially very personal products. The potency of the fragrance depends on the individual taste of the person who wears it and it depends on the person’s skin type too. It would always be better if you gift someone a perfume of their preferences so that it will be valued and appreciated all the time.

Getting to know the preference of the person to whom you are gifting the perfume can sometimes be tricky. But it can be managed in the midst of a casual conversation and once that part is done, the rest is comparatively easy. You can just pick up a fragrance to their liking and gift them at the appropriate time.

But in case it is not possible to find out about the recipient’s preferences, you do not need to despair. The next alternative would be to choose a scent which you feel is good. But nonetheless, it would be advisable to buy it from a store which permits an exchange because in case the scent you choose did not appeal to the recipient, he or she always has an option to get it exchanged for something of their choice.

Perfumes have to be selected according to the season, occasion, and of course, the skin type. The perfume should be brought according to the person’s age too. If you are uncertain about the preferences of the person, it would be a good idea to gift something like an eau de toilette or mist. A good fragrance will be always considered a treasured and pleasing gift.

Tim Walt

When it comes to perfume, anything goes! Perfumers get inspiration from the most unusual sources; for instance, most people wouldn’t imagine that a fabulous scent could be derived from the bark of common trees. But if you take time to really appreciate the subtle aroma of even the most common tree in your neighborhood, you’ll realize that bark actually can be a very important ingredient in perfume.

Bark has been used for hundreds of years in perfumes, incense, sachets and even candles because of its fresh and unique scents. In ages past, bark was used in the form of macerations, which is soaking or steeping the bark until its aromatic properties are drawn out of the wood and into the liquid. The resulting brew was then added to resin to make solid perfume or mixed with other agents to dry and add to candles or incense.

Today, perfumers have much more efficient ways to use bark in their creations. Although cinnamon bark is an ingredient in many perfumes and colognes, its relative Cassia is also used. Cassia is a bit more pungent than cinnamon but similarly aromatic and refreshing. Cinnamon and Cassia bark are common additions to popular formulas because of their sweet yet sharp and defined qualities that they contribute to the entire bouquet. Cinnamon and Cassia bark appear as far back as ancient Mesopotamia when people soaked them in oil and water and rubbed the liquid onto their bodies for a pleasant scent and refreshment. “Hugo” by Hugo boss is a well known men’s perfume and cologne that uses cinnamon bark blended with citrus and spicy leaves into a subtle but powerful bouquet that is both pleasant and stimulating.

Cascarilla, technically a plant and not a tree, nevertheless produces bark that is preferred by many creative perfumers. A native of the West Indies and other moderate tropical climates, its bark is used to flavor Campari and Vermouth as well as lend its grace our modern perfumes. Sassafras bark with its unique snap and lingering sweetness is another popular bark. Its fragrant oil is purified for its safrole, which has a candy-shop type aroma perfect for use in scents aimed towards young people. Safrole, believe it or not, is also used in some parts of the world in the manufacture of drugs used to treat epilepsy.

Other common barks used in perfumes include pine, cedar, juniper and birch. These barks are aromatic as well as reminiscent of the best scents associated with the outdoors and so they are very commonly used in masculine perfumes and colognes. A hint of these scents can bring such pleasant memories and impressions that bark-based colognes are a favorite among men and the women who love them.

Tim Walt

Fruity perfumes, particularly the more subtle ones, are refreshing and attractive. Many perfumes aren’t immediately noticeable as having fruit essences in them but you would notice a real difference without them. Amarige Mariage by Givenchy, for instance, doesn’t smell fruity but the mimosa, spices and violet depend on the accompanying essences of citrus, peaches and plums to bolster round out its enticing aroma.

Fruits are usually used after a process called “expression” in which they are pressed or squeezed to collect their oils. The peels of citrus fruits yield excellent results with this method because they hold large quantities of oil. Citrus is very cost effective to process for perfume, particularly because the fruit does not have to be of the quality required for sale as food in our markets. Lemons and oranges, the least expensive of citrus oils, are used extensively in many brands and types of perfumes and household products for this very reason. Plus, nearly everyone loves their fresh scent!

The Cold-Pressed Method is also used to harvest fruit oils. Since the oil glands in the fruit rind are easily broken open by pressure or grating, the uncut fruit is deposited in a vat with a very rough interior then rotated. The resulting oils are then collected, decanted and separated from impurities. Favorable economics as well as their pleasant odor make citrus oil a popular ingredient in perfumes and other products.

Many people also like the scent of apples, cherries and strawberries but these three fruits, unfortunately, don’t react as expected to extraction and their attractive scent is lost in the process. When you detect these fruits in various products or perfumes, you smell a synthetic imitation due to their unsuitability for processing.

Bergamot oil, from the fruit of the Bergamot orange tree, is the exception to cheaply harvested citrus oil. Its fresh fragrance is one of the more valuable perfume ingredients due to its relative rarity but more than a third of perfumes made for women contain it. Men’s cologne has recently made liberal use of Bergamot oil as it has become more in demand. Onyx by Azzaro uses Bergamot in combination with lemon, coriander (cilantro), Juniper, cedar wood and musk to create a very masculine and attractive perfume for men. Bergamot is an ideal compliment to the other, heavier ingredients and makes the blend lighter while still maintaining an earthy, masculine scent.

Fruits also lend a youthful attitude to perfumes and an atmosphere of carefree fun, depending upon what other ingredients they’re blended with. Using fruit oils in perfume allows perfumers to convey a variety of moods and emotions as well as unforgettable aromas.

Tim Walt