Before the creation of perfumes it is essential to obtain odorants to be used in the various process of its composition. Odorants can be obtained through synthetic as well as natural methods. While synthetically, odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purification, natural methods of extraction vary according to the type of plant as well as the type of oil that is produced. Every method adopted does not give equal results and the degree and quality of the essential oil obtained out of the different processes will differ. It should be remembered that as the difficulty of the process increases, the purity of the oil will be more and so will the expense. The cheaper methods employed may sometimes cause allergies in the skin.

Maceration is one of the most frequently used technique in the extraction of essential oils and it is also considered economical too. As a result this technique is widely used for extraction in the perfume industry today. Also known as solvent extraction, the process employed in this method is quite simple. Maceration makes use of a solvent which has the power to dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. The required raw materials are submerged in this solvent to obtain the desired results.

The duration of dissolving the raw materials in the solvent and extraction of aromatic compounds may take anywhere from a couple of hours to months together. It depends upon the material that is immersed and the quality of the essential oil that has to be extracted. Some of the main oils extracted this way are those obtained from woody and fibrous plant materials as well as those obtained from animal sources.

The method of maceration or solvent extraction is also employed in such cases where the odorants are extremely volatile or highly denatured due to heat. The process of maceration is gentle enough then to deliver high quality aromatic oil safely.

The process of maceration makes use of several suitable solvents for achieving the purpose. The most common among the solvents used in this process are hexane, ethanol, and di methyl ether. The name given for the product obtained after the process of maceration is ‘Concrete’.

Tim Walt

Aldehydes are benzenoid compounds, used to help make synthetic ingredients for perfume. These organic chemicals are a mixture of oxygen, carbon and hydrogen and are often combined with alcohol and natural plant materials and have a strong diffusive effect; that is, they enable the ingredients in a perfume to expand and inundate the formula and enhance their properties. In addition, they can make a perfume “sparkle” and boost the top notes, or the scent immediately noticeable when the perfume is first applied. A perfume with aldehydes is notable for its rich, opulent properties. First used in Chanel no. 5, many modern perfumers such at Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy take advantage of the sophisticated properties of aldehydes. 

Ernest Beaux, a Russian-born chemist, was the first to use aldehydes in a cologne he named Bouquet de Napoleon to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of the Battle of Borodino. After his work in World War One as both an infantryman and counterintelligence officer with the Russian army, he returned to Paris and continued his experimentation with aldehydes and in 1920 he perfected the fragrances that would become the world famous perfumes, Chanel No. 5 and Chanel No. 22. 

Before adelhydes, nitro benzene was used in perfumes along with fatty acids that mimicked the fragrances of fruit and flowers. With the cost of distilling, pressing and grinding various plants, herbs and other objects in order to get oils and liquid, perfume was out of reach for the woman of ordinary means. Indeed, wealthy women often wore their favorite fragrances specifically for the purpose of flaunting their social station. 

The use of adelhydes with natural oils allowed perfumers to lower their overhead in creating their scents instead of compromising on quality. Scents must have a very precise combination of ingredients with the adelhydes to achieve their aromas. For instance, amyl cinnamic aldehyde is found in many commercial products such as shampoos, fabric softeners and other domestic toiletries and exudes a pleasant floral bouquet. Hexyl adelhydes, on the other hand, produces a fruity fragrance. Aldehydes are particularly well suited to subtle, feminine perfumes or when a more elegant ambiance is desired.

Simply put, aldehydes allow the prime ingredients of a perfume to expand and permeate the base materials. They act as conductive agents, much as a the stalk of a water lily allows the blossom to grow and thrive. Without them, perfumers would still be able to create unique scents but the aroma would not last nearly as long or be consistent throughout the mixture. 

Today, most high quality perfumes make use of aldehydes to enhance not only the scent of their products but the natural ingredients that the contain. Some rare components such as Frankincense can be used a bit more liberally, thanks to aldehydes. The scarcity of Frankincense, a product of the bark of the Boswallia tree, makes perfume containing it very expensive but without aldehydes it would be out of reach for even a millionaire. Other equally hard to find or manufacture ingredients that are highly prized among creative perfumers are available for use thanks to aldehydes. 

Tim Walt