When it comes to perfume, anything goes! Perfumers get inspiration from the most unusual sources; for instance, most people wouldn’t imagine that a fabulous scent could be derived from the bark of common trees. But if you take time to really appreciate the subtle aroma of even the most common tree in your neighborhood, you’ll realize that bark actually can be a very important ingredient in perfume.

Bark has been used for hundreds of years in perfumes, incense, sachets and even candles because of its fresh and unique scents. In ages past, bark was used in the form of macerations, which is soaking or steeping the bark until its aromatic properties are drawn out of the wood and into the liquid. The resulting brew was then added to resin to make solid perfume or mixed with other agents to dry and add to candles or incense.

Today, perfumers have much more efficient ways to use bark in their creations. Although cinnamon bark is an ingredient in many perfumes and colognes, its relative Cassia is also used. Cassia is a bit more pungent than cinnamon but similarly aromatic and refreshing. Cinnamon and Cassia bark are common additions to popular formulas because of their sweet yet sharp and defined qualities that they contribute to the entire bouquet. Cinnamon and Cassia bark appear as far back as ancient Mesopotamia when people soaked them in oil and water and rubbed the liquid onto their bodies for a pleasant scent and refreshment. “Hugo” by Hugo boss is a well known men’s perfume and cologne that uses cinnamon bark blended with citrus and spicy leaves into a subtle but powerful bouquet that is both pleasant and stimulating.

Cascarilla, technically a plant and not a tree, nevertheless produces bark that is preferred by many creative perfumers. A native of the West Indies and other moderate tropical climates, its bark is used to flavor Campari and Vermouth as well as lend its grace our modern perfumes. Sassafras bark with its unique snap and lingering sweetness is another popular bark. Its fragrant oil is purified for its safrole, which has a candy-shop type aroma perfect for use in scents aimed towards young people. Safrole, believe it or not, is also used in some parts of the world in the manufacture of drugs used to treat epilepsy.

Other common barks used in perfumes include pine, cedar, juniper and birch. These barks are aromatic as well as reminiscent of the best scents associated with the outdoors and so they are very commonly used in masculine perfumes and colognes. A hint of these scents can bring such pleasant memories and impressions that bark-based colognes are a favorite among men and the women who love them.

Tim Walt

Perfumers make use of many elements when they search out new and different scent combinations and roots are one of many sources they tap Although roots aren’t used as often as blossoms or leaves, the few that they do make use of are very special.

Vetiver root is a highly prized ingredient in many perfumes. The plant itself is tall with leaves that are long, thin and rigid with flowers of brownish purple. It doesn’t sound like a very remarkable source of scent until you consider that the roots absorb the essence of the soil in which it grows. Where it is grown determines the scent! Some, grown in India, is smoky while those grown in Sri Lanka impart an earthy woodiness. Haitian Vetiver has an array of aromas from clean grassy scent to citrusy to a light floral bouquet.
The Haitian variety is particularly prized by perfumers. When harvested, the oil is thick and dark brown, with a smoky, earthy sweet odor that’s very seductive.

Sassafras, usually thought of as an herbal remedy, tea or cool drink, is distilled by perfumers and the resulting oil is called safrole. It is usually used sparingly and mixed with other oils such as flowers or woods. Its strong olfactory flavor adds tang and excitement to many scents.

Sandalwood, probably the best known of any common scent, is not so common when blended with complimentary fragrances. Its oil is distilled from the wood and root of the tree into the unmistakable exotic fragrance most people know and love. Sandalwood is an important part of many perfumes, particularly the Oriental types. Lair Du Temps by Nina Ricci is a very good example of the use of sandalwood in a wonderfully feminine and exciting perfume. Mixed with gardenia, rose, carnation and musk, the sandalwood adds a hint of the Orient and helps to bring out the exquisite combination of musk and blossoms.

Another root commonly used in perfumery is Angelica Root, also known as Holy Ghost Root or Archangel Root. Aside from its medicinal qualities, it has a woody, fresh and peppery aroma that is excellent for mixing with florals. It is often used in high grade perfumes to give them musk-like notes. Angelica Root is a beautiful plant nearly five feet in height with a long, fibrous root prized by perfumers. The plant has a very tangy taste and odor but, like many attractive plants, is poisonous if eaten raw. Once cooked for a dish or processed for perfume, it is perfectly safe. Its stalks are often candied and used as decorations for cakes and desserts in Europe, or to flavor liqueurs and wines.

Tim Walt