The thought of perfume containing tobacco essence might be repulsive to some until they realize how good tobacco really smells. It’s the smoke that actually smells so bad, not the tobacco itself. Anyone that has ever walked into a fine cigar shop can appreciate the rich, luxurious scent of good tobacco and see the wonderful possibilities of using that aroma in fine perfume.

Lagerfeld by Karl Lagerfeld is a good example of what tobacco essence can do for perfume. Combining the oils of spices and tobacco, Lagerfeld produces the smoky ambiance of a fine cigar spiked with spices that lend a slightly sweet, fresh note that evokes the very essence of masculine strength and luxury.

Tobacco’s bittersweet aroma makes it a perfect companion to cedar, citrus and spices. Some perfumers have added femininity to it by mixing it with honeysuckle, lemon or ambergris. A touch of coffee or cocoa makes it androgynous yet sensuous.

In fact, tobacco is so versatile that it can be added to nearly any perfume to elicit a variety of emotions or impressions. A scent with tobacco notes can bring to mind anything from dried fruits or gingerbread to the sharp impression of fine whiskey or the fresh scent of freshly cut hay.

Most of us remember the sweet odor of burning leaves in the fall and crisp autumn winds with the sharp bite of winter barely creeping in. Tobacco captures these smells and emotions so perfectly that you don’t realize your nose is enjoying a leaf that is so despised for its commercial use of smoking. Tobacco is also used in the leather family of fragrances as a base or middle note to compliment the scent of leather; in the right combination of scents, it can allude to aged, supple leather to create a warm and rich feeling of winter nights by a fire with a good book and a glass of fine wine.

Of course, there are synthetic versions of tobacco aroma that are being used more frequently in fine perfumes. The environmentally friendly synthetics are very precise and the quality is consistent enough that each batch of perfume maintains the exacting standards of the perfumer.

Regardless of natural or synthetic origin, or whether you deplore the use of tobacco aside from perfume, there’s no doubt that tobacco leaves provide a warm and sensual note to scents for both men and women. The person who wants their presence remembered for an uncommonly delicious fragrance should seek out those unique creations that contain tobacco.

Tim Walt

Perfumers make use of many elements when they search out new and different scent combinations and roots are one of many sources they tap Although roots aren’t used as often as blossoms or leaves, the few that they do make use of are very special.

Vetiver root is a highly prized ingredient in many perfumes. The plant itself is tall with leaves that are long, thin and rigid with flowers of brownish purple. It doesn’t sound like a very remarkable source of scent until you consider that the roots absorb the essence of the soil in which it grows. Where it is grown determines the scent! Some, grown in India, is smoky while those grown in Sri Lanka impart an earthy woodiness. Haitian Vetiver has an array of aromas from clean grassy scent to citrusy to a light floral bouquet.
The Haitian variety is particularly prized by perfumers. When harvested, the oil is thick and dark brown, with a smoky, earthy sweet odor that’s very seductive.

Sassafras, usually thought of as an herbal remedy, tea or cool drink, is distilled by perfumers and the resulting oil is called safrole. It is usually used sparingly and mixed with other oils such as flowers or woods. Its strong olfactory flavor adds tang and excitement to many scents.

Sandalwood, probably the best known of any common scent, is not so common when blended with complimentary fragrances. Its oil is distilled from the wood and root of the tree into the unmistakable exotic fragrance most people know and love. Sandalwood is an important part of many perfumes, particularly the Oriental types. Lair Du Temps by Nina Ricci is a very good example of the use of sandalwood in a wonderfully feminine and exciting perfume. Mixed with gardenia, rose, carnation and musk, the sandalwood adds a hint of the Orient and helps to bring out the exquisite combination of musk and blossoms.

Another root commonly used in perfumery is Angelica Root, also known as Holy Ghost Root or Archangel Root. Aside from its medicinal qualities, it has a woody, fresh and peppery aroma that is excellent for mixing with florals. It is often used in high grade perfumes to give them musk-like notes. Angelica Root is a beautiful plant nearly five feet in height with a long, fibrous root prized by perfumers. The plant has a very tangy taste and odor but, like many attractive plants, is poisonous if eaten raw. Once cooked for a dish or processed for perfume, it is perfectly safe. Its stalks are often candied and used as decorations for cakes and desserts in Europe, or to flavor liqueurs and wines.

Tim Walt