When it comes to perfume, anything goes! Perfumers get inspiration from the most unusual sources; for instance, most people wouldn’t imagine that a fabulous scent could be derived from the bark of common trees. But if you take time to really appreciate the subtle aroma of even the most common tree in your neighborhood, you’ll realize that bark actually can be a very important ingredient in perfume.

Bark has been used for hundreds of years in perfumes, incense, sachets and even candles because of its fresh and unique scents. In ages past, bark was used in the form of macerations, which is soaking or steeping the bark until its aromatic properties are drawn out of the wood and into the liquid. The resulting brew was then added to resin to make solid perfume or mixed with other agents to dry and add to candles or incense.

Today, perfumers have much more efficient ways to use bark in their creations. Although cinnamon bark is an ingredient in many perfumes and colognes, its relative Cassia is also used. Cassia is a bit more pungent than cinnamon but similarly aromatic and refreshing. Cinnamon and Cassia bark are common additions to popular formulas because of their sweet yet sharp and defined qualities that they contribute to the entire bouquet. Cinnamon and Cassia bark appear as far back as ancient Mesopotamia when people soaked them in oil and water and rubbed the liquid onto their bodies for a pleasant scent and refreshment. “Hugo” by Hugo boss is a well known men’s perfume and cologne that uses cinnamon bark blended with citrus and spicy leaves into a subtle but powerful bouquet that is both pleasant and stimulating.

Cascarilla, technically a plant and not a tree, nevertheless produces bark that is preferred by many creative perfumers. A native of the West Indies and other moderate tropical climates, its bark is used to flavor Campari and Vermouth as well as lend its grace our modern perfumes. Sassafras bark with its unique snap and lingering sweetness is another popular bark. Its fragrant oil is purified for its safrole, which has a candy-shop type aroma perfect for use in scents aimed towards young people. Safrole, believe it or not, is also used in some parts of the world in the manufacture of drugs used to treat epilepsy.

Other common barks used in perfumes include pine, cedar, juniper and birch. These barks are aromatic as well as reminiscent of the best scents associated with the outdoors and so they are very commonly used in masculine perfumes and colognes. A hint of these scents can bring such pleasant memories and impressions that bark-based colognes are a favorite among men and the women who love them.

Tim Walt

Fruity perfumes, particularly the more subtle ones, are refreshing and attractive. Many perfumes aren’t immediately noticeable as having fruit essences in them but you would notice a real difference without them. Amarige Mariage by Givenchy, for instance, doesn’t smell fruity but the mimosa, spices and violet depend on the accompanying essences of citrus, peaches and plums to bolster round out its enticing aroma.

Fruits are usually used after a process called “expression” in which they are pressed or squeezed to collect their oils. The peels of citrus fruits yield excellent results with this method because they hold large quantities of oil. Citrus is very cost effective to process for perfume, particularly because the fruit does not have to be of the quality required for sale as food in our markets. Lemons and oranges, the least expensive of citrus oils, are used extensively in many brands and types of perfumes and household products for this very reason. Plus, nearly everyone loves their fresh scent!

The Cold-Pressed Method is also used to harvest fruit oils. Since the oil glands in the fruit rind are easily broken open by pressure or grating, the uncut fruit is deposited in a vat with a very rough interior then rotated. The resulting oils are then collected, decanted and separated from impurities. Favorable economics as well as their pleasant odor make citrus oil a popular ingredient in perfumes and other products.

Many people also like the scent of apples, cherries and strawberries but these three fruits, unfortunately, don’t react as expected to extraction and their attractive scent is lost in the process. When you detect these fruits in various products or perfumes, you smell a synthetic imitation due to their unsuitability for processing.

Bergamot oil, from the fruit of the Bergamot orange tree, is the exception to cheaply harvested citrus oil. Its fresh fragrance is one of the more valuable perfume ingredients due to its relative rarity but more than a third of perfumes made for women contain it. Men’s cologne has recently made liberal use of Bergamot oil as it has become more in demand. Onyx by Azzaro uses Bergamot in combination with lemon, coriander (cilantro), Juniper, cedar wood and musk to create a very masculine and attractive perfume for men. Bergamot is an ideal compliment to the other, heavier ingredients and makes the blend lighter while still maintaining an earthy, masculine scent.

Fruits also lend a youthful attitude to perfumes and an atmosphere of carefree fun, depending upon what other ingredients they’re blended with. Using fruit oils in perfume allows perfumers to convey a variety of moods and emotions as well as unforgettable aromas.

Tim Walt

Perfumers make use of many elements when they search out new and different scent combinations and roots are one of many sources they tap Although roots aren’t used as often as blossoms or leaves, the few that they do make use of are very special.

Vetiver root is a highly prized ingredient in many perfumes. The plant itself is tall with leaves that are long, thin and rigid with flowers of brownish purple. It doesn’t sound like a very remarkable source of scent until you consider that the roots absorb the essence of the soil in which it grows. Where it is grown determines the scent! Some, grown in India, is smoky while those grown in Sri Lanka impart an earthy woodiness. Haitian Vetiver has an array of aromas from clean grassy scent to citrusy to a light floral bouquet.
The Haitian variety is particularly prized by perfumers. When harvested, the oil is thick and dark brown, with a smoky, earthy sweet odor that’s very seductive.

Sassafras, usually thought of as an herbal remedy, tea or cool drink, is distilled by perfumers and the resulting oil is called safrole. It is usually used sparingly and mixed with other oils such as flowers or woods. Its strong olfactory flavor adds tang and excitement to many scents.

Sandalwood, probably the best known of any common scent, is not so common when blended with complimentary fragrances. Its oil is distilled from the wood and root of the tree into the unmistakable exotic fragrance most people know and love. Sandalwood is an important part of many perfumes, particularly the Oriental types. Lair Du Temps by Nina Ricci is a very good example of the use of sandalwood in a wonderfully feminine and exciting perfume. Mixed with gardenia, rose, carnation and musk, the sandalwood adds a hint of the Orient and helps to bring out the exquisite combination of musk and blossoms.

Another root commonly used in perfumery is Angelica Root, also known as Holy Ghost Root or Archangel Root. Aside from its medicinal qualities, it has a woody, fresh and peppery aroma that is excellent for mixing with florals. It is often used in high grade perfumes to give them musk-like notes. Angelica Root is a beautiful plant nearly five feet in height with a long, fibrous root prized by perfumers. The plant has a very tangy taste and odor but, like many attractive plants, is poisonous if eaten raw. Once cooked for a dish or processed for perfume, it is perfectly safe. Its stalks are often candied and used as decorations for cakes and desserts in Europe, or to flavor liqueurs and wines.

Tim Walt

Spices were discovered long ago as an aid in food preservation and flavor. Naturally, people began to think that the aromas of spices could be used to provide scents for the air and their persons. Spices began to be used for perfumes in Egypt and the Middle and Far East first, as Europe had no source for them with few exceptions, before the era of the Crusades opened up routes for trading.

Cardamom, often called “The Queen of Spices”, is grown for the most part in southern India, a fruit of the ginger family. Its cool fragrance is slightly sweet and reminiscent of oranges with a touch of ginger. It compliments other scents very well, toning down the more aggressive ones while accentuating aromas that aren’t so strong. Omnia by Bulgari uses cardamom along with saffron, black pepper (“The King of Spices”), Indian wood, mandarin and white chocolate to create a rich, light perfume with Oriental overtones that women love to wear, much to the delight of the men around them. 

Thyme is another popular spice used in perfume, usually as a top note that creates a first impression or a middle note that evolves as the perfume mellows from the warmth of the skin. Thyme’s light, fresh aroma perfectly compliments the orange blossom, vanilla and citrus in Gucci by Gucci. If you wonder how essence of thyme smells, you can reach for your spice rack to get an idea; it’s probably there with others you use in everyday cooking. 

Spices are also widely used in men’s perfume products. For example, Lapidus by Ted Lapidus perfumers uses a blend of spices combined with woods, lavender and amber to convey a sense of strong sophistication and individuality backed by warm and earthy power undertones. 

Nutmeg, the seed of evergreen tree that grow in Southeast Asia and other tropical climates, is processed by steam distillation after it is ground up. It is said that in England a few centuries ago, it was such a valuable spice that being able to obtain and sell a few nutmeg nuts would assure lifetime financial independence! Nutmeg is a perfect compliment to perfume formulas that contain wood tones or florals and provides freshness to the blend as well as a faint rich sweetness. 

Spices each have such varied fragrances that they are used to convey emotions as well as mental landscapes. The aromas of the most frequently used spices are those that many of us have smelled all our lives in our everyday food or in sachets used to freshen our closet and even the household cleaners our mothers used! It’s no wonder that perfumes containing spices are invariably pleasant and makes us feel sentimental as well as intrigued.

Tim Walt

A very important ingredient in perfume comes from the seeds of aromatic plants and trees. Many of them are from spices but some, like the tonka bean, come from trees and bushes.

The tonka bean is very versatile, used in food and other applications as well as perfume. Once processed, it exudes the scent as well as the flavor of vanilla and is popular due to its cost. While vanilla is quite expensive, the tonka bean is much less so while still imparting the delicious scent of vanilla as well as touches of almond, cinnamon and cloves. The seed is process through extraction to obtain the rich, warm aroma with an underlying caramel-sweet tone. Carlos Santana recently marketed a perfume of the same name that contains tonka bean with apple, cinnamon and lavender. Its rich, airy aroma isn’t as fruity as you would think, the tonka bean taming the fruit and floral scents into an earthier yet light scent that caresses the air rather than overwhelm it. 

Coriander, another seed that plays an important role in perfumery, comes from the cilantro plant. Although you may be familiar with cilantro through its use in salsa, coriander seeds will surprise you with their faintly orange-like scent especially if you’re familiar with the smell of the plant’s leaves. After the oil is extracted through steam distillation, they have a faint scent of oranges. 

When you think of cocoa, hot drinks and chocolate bars usually come to mind but did you know that they are also used with great success in perfumes? The cocoa bean is actually a seed from the cacao tree, rich in antioxidants and imbued with a scent of rich, dark earth and a very faint cocoa aroma. The dominant cocoa scent you know from drinking cocoa and chocolate is naturally developed after processing quite different than that used for perfumes. 

Vanilla, a natural compliment for cocoa’s aroma, is found in very high grade perfumes due to its purity and cost. The plant is actually an orchid which has to be pollinated and produce seed pods before it can be processed for perfume. Because of the precise requirements of orchids, it’s not as easy to grow and harvest as other seeds but the heavenly aroma from its seeds makes it well worth the extra cost and trouble. Cacharel manufactures a perfume called Amor Amor that uses vanilla combined with fragrant woods, fruits and florals. Vanilla, a wonderful aroma itself, tends to bring out the best in the scents that are combined with it. 

Seeds are a very important component of perfumery, used for hundreds of years while being laboriously processed by hand. With modern methods, perfumers are discovering many new delicious scents from seeds.

Tim Walt

The aromatic industry makes use of several techniques in the extraction of essential oils from natural sources. Distillation, Expression, maceration, Enfleurage, etc are a few effective techniques among them. The method of extraction depends largely on the type of raw material used. Enfleurage is one such method which is employed effectively in the extraction of fragrances. Here, the fragrant compounds that are emitted from the raw materials are absorbed into wax and then extracted as oil with the help of alcohol.

In this method, odorless fats which remain solid at room temperature are made use of to capture the fragrant compounds which are given off by plants. The process of Enfleurage can either be ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ according to the raw material from which the oil has to be extracted.
The process involved in extraction of aromatic compounds through cold Enfleurage is as follows. A layer of animal fat usually from pork or beef is smeared on a large framed, glass plate which is known as chassis. After it sets completely, the raw material which normally comprises of petals or whole flowers are placed on it for a period of one to three days for their scent to get diffused on to the fat. This process is repeated by replacing the withered flowers until the fragrance absorbed by the fat reaches a saturation point. This method of fragrance extraction was initially developed in the South of France towards the nineteenth century and was mainly used for the creation of high-grade concentrates.

Hot Enfleurage is a process in which the fats which are in a solid state of form are heated initially and the raw materials which consist of different plant material are stirred into it at repeated intervals until the fat becomes saturated with the scent. Considered to be one among the ancient methods of preserving fragrances from plant matter, it was used widely and was a very popular method.

Both the hot and cold Enfleurage produces the ‘enfleurage pomade’, or fat which happens to be heavily saturated with fragrance.  It could be sold directly or treated further by ethyl alcohol so that the aromatic molecules are absorbed by the alcohol. This alcohol, when evaporated, leaves behind the odorant or fragrant compounds.

The technique of Enfleurage is not considered to be very economically viable by the aromatic industry these days and as a result it has given way to more cost effective and efficient extraction methods.

Tim Walt

Before the creation of perfumes it is essential to obtain odorants to be used in the various process of its composition. Odorants can be obtained through synthetic as well as natural methods. While synthetically, odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purification, natural methods of extraction vary according to the type of plant as well as the type of oil that is produced. Every method adopted does not give equal results and the degree and quality of the essential oil obtained out of the different processes will differ. It should be remembered that as the difficulty of the process increases, the purity of the oil will be more and so will the expense. The cheaper methods employed may sometimes cause allergies in the skin.

Maceration is one of the most frequently used technique in the extraction of essential oils and it is also considered economical too. As a result this technique is widely used for extraction in the perfume industry today. Also known as solvent extraction, the process employed in this method is quite simple. Maceration makes use of a solvent which has the power to dissolve the desired aromatic compounds. The required raw materials are submerged in this solvent to obtain the desired results.

The duration of dissolving the raw materials in the solvent and extraction of aromatic compounds may take anywhere from a couple of hours to months together. It depends upon the material that is immersed and the quality of the essential oil that has to be extracted. Some of the main oils extracted this way are those obtained from woody and fibrous plant materials as well as those obtained from animal sources.

The method of maceration or solvent extraction is also employed in such cases where the odorants are extremely volatile or highly denatured due to heat. The process of maceration is gentle enough then to deliver high quality aromatic oil safely.

The process of maceration makes use of several suitable solvents for achieving the purpose. The most common among the solvents used in this process are hexane, ethanol, and di methyl ether. The name given for the product obtained after the process of maceration is ‘Concrete’.

Tim Walt

We’ve all tasted vanilla in various foods and frozen treats and appreciated its remarkable flavor. Perfumers have long known that the scent of vanilla is even more inspiring in perfume than it is in food and have used it for hundreds of years to impart a warm, velvety fragrance to everything from incense to perfumes for royalty. These days, nearly everyone can enjoy a fragrance of sensuous vanilla weaving its way through the other notes of a fine perfume. 

Vanilla, however, is very costly to grow and manufacture, requiring intense labor from nurturing the plant through pollination and harvest. Vanilla planifolia, a member of the orchid family, is a vine that can climb up to three hundred feet high and often is grown in the shade of larger trees due to its sensitivity to the rays of the sun. The beautiful blossoms of the orchid must be pollinated in order to produce the pods from which the oil for perfumes is extracted by distillation. Insects and hummingbirds are not considered reliable enough so workers begin at dawn to pollinate each blossom, which opens in the morning and closes forever by afternoon. The process is so labor intensive and the fruits of that labor so valuable that each individual pod is marked to prevent theft. 

So you can see why vanilla is so highly prized and is an ingredient in so many of the finer perfumes. Shalimar Light by Guerlain blends vanilla with jasmine petals and bergamot to produce a light and invigorating scent that is unmistakably feminine and alluring. Kenzo uses vanilla with violet and rose to make Kenzo Flower, a refreshingly light floral fragrance. Jean Paul Gaultier, the renowned designer, created a perfume by the same name using amber and wood essences with vanilla for an irresistibly male fragrance that exudes confidence. The use of vanilla in perfume is limited only by the skill and imagination of the perfumer.

Vanilla has also been produced synthetically due to the exorbitant cost of producing the natural product. In creating the aroma artificially, perfumers have put the wonderful fragrance of vanilla within reach of nearly everyone who enjoys its wonderful scent. In fact, synthetic vanilla often retains its aroma longer than the natural version due to its chemical composition. 

The rich, warm bouquet of vanilla has been prized for hundreds of years and rightly so. As far back as 1000 B.C., vanilla was a treasure both for the cupboard and for personal wear. This very basic yet indescribably delicious scent is a must for everyone’s perfume collection.

Tim Walt

Synthetic perfumes can imitate natural scents or create new ones that aren’t found in nature. From a fresh marine scent that can’t be obtained naturally to a sensuous orchid aroma that is highly prized but not attainable from natural sources, synthetic odors have been a boon to the perfume industry. 

Nearly all great perfumes contain synthetic molecules, not because synthetics are less expensive but because perfumers can create scents that evoke memories and emotions that nature lacks the raw materials for. All of Chanel’s perfumes contain synthetic components as do every other truly remarkable perfume. Methyl dihydrojasmonate, for instance, imparts the sense of pure light and clean air that imitates the scent and feel of water, an aroma not possible to imitate with any natural ingredients. 

Many lovers of perfume harbor a strong prejudice against synthetics, thinking they cheapen true perfume. Nothing could be further from the truth! The world-famous Chanel No. 5 would be mediocre without synthetic aldehydes developed in 1903. Cheap? The best synthetic creations, much like rare natural ingredients such as true vanilla, are very expensive. A truly wonderful synthetic ingredient can cost up to $1200 per pound. 

Synthetics can also prevent allergic reactions. There are many people who love the scent of Sandalwood but have allergic reactions when they try to wear perfume containing it. A synthetic named Sandalore prevents that reaction and brings joy to the allergy sufferer. As an added bonus, synthetics help to preserve our natural environment. The sandalwood forests in India have been harvested at an alarming rate to sate our thirst for their fragrance in perfumes, soaps, and other everyday products. Many perfumers, seeing the destruction of natural resources for the sake of commerce, are turning to synthetics in order to serve their customers while preserving the earth’s beauty for their own children and grandchildren. 

Take musk, for example. The musk deer was hunted to the point of endangerment up till a couple of decades ago when synthetic musk was developed and laws enacted to protect the animal. Synthetic musk not only lasts longer than the real thing, the guilt factor is removed completely. You can wear your favorite musk-based perfume knowing that no suffering was involved for innocent animals. 

In summary, you can make a nutritious dinner using only natural ingredients and practices such as baking your own bread over a fire but why would you want to? Artificial methods and growing practices have greatly enhanced our lives and our health. Synthetic perfumes, in the same way, not only protect our natural resources but allow us to enjoy a large spectrum of truly remarkable and memorable scents that would normally be out of reach.

Tim Walt

Perfumes have become an unavoidable part of our final ‘touch up’. Smelling good automatically translates to ‘feeling good’ too and the sort of confidence that a good perfume can impart is indeed noteworthy. Today, a wide range of fragrances are manufactured by different perfume houses and their number keeps increasing by the day too. These products make use of various ingredients and flavors according to the trend of the day or according to the needs of the various clienteles. Due to the increasing influx of perfumes that are available today, it has become increasingly difficult to choose the perfect fragrance that compliments a person.

Perfumes should be chosen with the utmost care and attention. What suits one need not necessarily be suitable for some other person. That is because of the difference seen in their skin and sweat conditions. Therefore, the ideal way to choose the right perfume would be to try it on the skin before making a purchase so that the person gets know if the smell suits them or not.

Today, we find that just about any toiletry or cosmetic for that matter contains fragrance in them. Soaps, lotions, creams, deodorants, after shaves etc come with their own individual stamp of fragrance and they are able to attract a whole lot of consumers. It is very important that you select a fragrance which goes well with your personality and in fact, enhances it considerably. Perfumes are an excellent way to create your style mantra and are very effective in leaving a lasting and lingering impression on others too.

Today, we find various types of perfumes in the market. There are lighter fragrances for day or office wear and heady scents for party occasions. There are fruity scents, citrus scents, floral scents, and a wide range of other combinations which may leave one totally confused. Identifying your type of scent comes out of a lot of trial and error and it is ideal that you try it on your wrist and wait for some time before making that payment.
Perfumes and deodorants helps in keeping the human body cool, fresh, relaxed, sexy and confident all day long. So it is very important that the right fragrance be selected to enhance these qualities. A pleasant smell leaves a lasting impression on people and care should be taken to select a fragrance that suits your personality and increases your confidence. Select the lighter and delicate scents for day wear and leave the stronger and heavier fragrances for that evening party or night out.

Perfumes should be stored carefully so that it lasts for a longer time. Perfumes can retain their freshness and quality for longer times if preserved in the right conditions.

Tim Walt